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Know YourOwn Pipes.

A complete, honest guide to basic plumbing — written by a third-generation licensed plumber. Fix it yourself, save real money, and never get overcharged again.

COLD SUPPLY WATER HEATER HOT SUPPLY SINK TOILET SHOWER MAIN DRAIN → SEWER MAIN SHUTOFF P-TRAP Cold Hot Drain
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Everything in One Place

Eight complete chapters covering every common plumbing situation in a typical home. No experience required.

01

Understanding Your Home Plumbing System

Every residential plumbing system has two completely separate jobs running side by side inside your walls. Understanding this structure changes how you diagnose every problem you will ever encounter.

The Supply System

Fresh water enters your home under pressure — typically 40 to 80 PSI — through a single main supply line. Immediately it splits into two branches that run in parallel to every fixture in the house.

Cold Water Line (Blue)
  • Goes directly to every fixture
  • Toilets, hose bibs, refrigerators
  • One side of every sink, tub and shower
  • Remains at ground temperature year-round
Hot Water Line (Red)
  • Goes first to the water heater
  • From the heater to sinks, tubs, showers
  • Also serves dishwashers and washing machines
  • Should arrive at fixtures at 120°F (49°C)

The Drain-Waste-Vent (DWV) System

The drain system works entirely by gravity — there is no pressure here. Every pipe slopes slightly downward toward the main drain line. Three components work together:

⚠ The Most Important Thing to Know

  • Find your main shutoff valve right now — before any emergency. It is typically where water enters the house: basement wall, crawlspace, utility room, or a box near the street meter.
  • Turns clockwise to close (righty-tighty). Test it today. A stuck shutoff during a burst pipe will cost you thousands.
  • Also locate the individual shutoff valve under every sink and behind every toilet. Use these first in an emergency — they isolate just that fixture.
  • Label your main shutoff with a tag. Show every adult in your household where it is.
SIMPLIFIED HOUSE PLUMBING DIAGRAM COLD WATER MAIN MAIN SHUTOFF WATER HEATER HOT WATER MAIN SINK TOILET SHOWER TUB MAIN DRAIN → SEWER / SEPTIC VENT → ROOF Cold Supply Hot Supply Drain/Waste Vent Stack

Figure 1 — Simplified residential plumbing layout showing supply, drain, and vent systems

02

Pipes, Fittings & Materials

You do not need to memorize chemistry — just know what each pipe looks like, where it is used, and how to connect it. Here is everything you will encounter in a typical home.

Copper

Copper Pipe

The gold standard for supply lines. Lasts 50–70 years. Joined by soldering or push-connect fittings.

PVC — White

PVC Pipe

For drain, waste & vent only. NOT hot water supply. Joined with purple primer + solvent cement.

CPVC — Cream

CPVC Pipe

Hot and cold supply lines. Similar to PVC but heat-rated. Requires CPVC-specific cement.

PEX — Flexible

PEX Pipe

Modern supply lines. Flexible, freeze-resistant. Red = hot, Blue = cold. Crimp or push fittings.

Galvanized

Galvanized Steel

Old technology, pre-1960 homes. Corrodes from inside over time. Replace when possible.

Common Fittings

Every pipe system uses the same categories of fittings regardless of material. Learning these names helps you communicate clearly at the hardware store:

ℹ Quick Identification on the Job

  • Shiny orange-brown metal = copper supply line
  • White rigid plastic = PVC drain line
  • Cream or yellow rigid plastic = CPVC supply line
  • Flexible plastic, red or blue = PEX supply line
  • Gray threaded metal = galvanized steel (inspect for corrosion)
  • Very heavy black pipe = cast iron drain (found in older homes)
03

Essential Plumbing Tools

You do not need a truckload of tools. These items — most under $30 each — handle 90% of common home plumbing jobs. Build this kit over time and you will be ready for almost anything.

Hand Tools — Every Homeowner Needs These

Tools
  • Adjustable wrench (12") — supply lines, shutoff valves, compression nuts
  • Channel-lock pliers — the single most-used plumbing tool in existence
  • Pipe wrench (14" + 18") — always use two: one turns, one holds
  • Hacksaw or mini hacksaw — cuts metal and plastic pipe
  • Utility knife — scoring, cutting, stripping materials
  • Headlamp — you will work in dark spaces constantly
Supplies & Consumables
  • Teflon/PTFE tape (white roll) — wraps threaded connections to prevent leaks
  • Plumber's putty — seals drain flanges and faucet bases (not for plastic)
  • Pipe thread sealant (pipe dope) — stronger alternative to PTFE tape
  • Emery cloth — essential for cleaning copper before soldering
  • Bucket + old towels — water comes out when you open any pipe
  • Tape measure — always needed for sizing pipe and parts

Drain Tools

⚠ Never Use Chemical Drain Cleaners (Drano, Liquid-Plumr, etc.)

  • They are caustic — they damage older pipes, especially galvanized steel and ABS plastic
  • They rarely clear a complete blockage, only dissolve the top layer
  • If you then use a plunger, you risk splashing dangerous chemicals in your face and eyes
  • They kill the beneficial bacteria in septic systems
  • A $20 drain snake outperforms a $10 bottle of chemicals every time
04

How to Solder (Sweat) Copper Pipe

Soldering copper is the skill that intimidates homeowners most. With patience and correct technique, it is completely learnable. A properly soldered joint is actually stronger than the pipe itself.

⚠ Lead-Free Solder Only for Drinking Water

  • Always use lead-free solder (50/50 or 95/5 tin-antimony) for any pipe that carries drinking water
  • Lead solder was banned for potable water applications in the USA in 1986 — but it is still sold for other uses
  • Look for NSF/ANSI 61 certification on the solder package. Do not skip this check.

What You Need

Materials
  • Copper pipe and copper fittings
  • Lead-free solder (NSF/ANSI 61 certified)
  • Flux paste (water-soluble type)
  • Propane or MAP-pro torch
Tools
  • Pipe cutter (makes a cleaner cut than a hacksaw)
  • Fitting brush (inside) + emery cloth (outside)
  • Heat shield / fire cloth (critical for protecting framing)
  • Damp rag for wiping the joint immediately after soldering

Step-by-Step Instructions

  1. Cut the pipe square. Use a pipe cutter, not a hacksaw. Rotate the cutter around the pipe, gradually tightening with each pass. A square cut is essential for a watertight joint.
  2. Deburr the inside. The pipe cutter leaves a slight ridge inside the pipe. Use the reamer blade folded out from the cutter (or a deburring tool) to remove it. This ridge restricts water flow if left in place.
  3. Clean both surfaces. Use emery cloth on the outside of the pipe end. Use a fitting brush on the inside of the fitting. Clean copper is shiny. Dirty copper does not solder. This step is non-negotiable.
  4. Apply flux paste. Brush a thin, even layer of flux on both the cleaned pipe end and inside the fitting. Flux chemically cleans the surface and pulls solder into the joint.
  5. Assemble and support. Push the pipe into the fitting. Make sure the joint will be stable — it cannot move while you are soldering.
  6. Heat the fitting, not the solder. Apply the torch flame to the fitting — not the pipe, not the solder. Move the flame around the fitting for even heating. After 10–20 seconds, touch the solder wire to the joint (not the flame). When the fitting is hot enough, it will melt the solder on contact.
  7. Feed solder into the joint. The solder will be pulled into the gap by capillary action. Apply just enough to fill the joint — typically about 1/2 to 3/4 inch of solder wire per 3/4-inch joint. A small bead of solder should form around the joint.
  8. Wipe immediately. While still hot (not glowing), wipe the joint with a damp rag to remove excess flux and give it a clean finish. Do not touch with bare hands — it is still very hot.
  9. Let cool undisturbed. Do not run water through the joint for at least 2–3 minutes. Do not touch or move it. Allow it to cool and fully solidify.

✓ Safety Checklist

  • Work in a ventilated area — flux fumes are irritating to lungs and eyes
  • Always place a heat shield (fire-resistant cloth) behind the pipe to protect wood studs and insulation — torch fires in walls are a real hazard
  • Keep a fire extinguisher nearby and within reach
  • Drain and dry the pipe completely — water in the pipe will turn to steam and prevent the joint from reaching soldering temperature
  • Wear safety glasses — small drops of flux can spit when heated
SOLDERING PROCESS — 5 STAGES STEP 1 STEP 2 STEP 3 STEP 4 STEP 5 Cut Pipe Clean Both Apply Flux Heat Fitting Feed Solder FLUX Square cut = clean joint Shiny = clean. Dull = bad. Thin, even coat only Heat fitting, NOT solder Wipe joint immediately

Figure 4 — The five key stages of soldering a copper joint

05

Unclogging Drains

Most drain clogs cost $0 to fix and take 15 minutes. Work through this escalation ladder in order — stop the moment the drain clears. The further down you go, the more involved the repair.

The Escalation Ladder

  1. Boiling water. For kitchen sink clogs (grease and soap buildup), pour a full kettle of boiling water slowly down the drain. Wait one minute, repeat 2–3 times. Works surprisingly often. Do not use on PVC pipes with boiling water — use very hot tap water instead (PVC can warp).
  2. Baking soda and white vinegar. Pour 1/2 cup of baking soda into the drain, followed immediately by 1/2 cup of white vinegar. The fizzing reaction breaks up soft clogs. Cover the drain and wait 15 minutes. Flush with hot water.
  3. Plunger. Use a cup plunger for sinks and tubs. Use a flange plunger for toilets. Create a seal over the drain and use firm, vigorous, up-and-down motion — 15 to 20 plunges. If there are other drains nearby (double sink, adjacent tub), block them with a wet rag to direct all the pressure at the clog.
  4. Drain snake (hand auger). Insert the snake cable into the drain. When you feel resistance, you have found the clog. Rotate the handle clockwise to either break through or hook the clog. Pull back slowly — the clog often comes out with the snake. Run hot water to flush the remainder.
  5. Remove and clean the P-trap. Place a bucket under the curved pipe (P-trap) beneath the sink. Unscrew the slip nuts by hand or with channel-lock pliers. Remove the trap and clean it over the bucket. This is the most common location for clogs — and this repair costs nothing.
  6. Call a licensed plumber. If all of the above fail, the clog is likely further in the main line (past the P-trap, in the wall or underground). This requires a power auger or hydro-jetting equipment. This is when you genuinely need a professional — but by this point, you have eliminated every DIY option first.

ℹ Clog Prevention — The Real Fix

  • Kitchen: never pour grease, oil or coffee grounds down the drain. Wipe greasy pans with paper towels before washing.
  • Bathroom: use a $2 drain hair catcher in every shower and tub. Clean it weekly. Hair is the #1 cause of bathroom drain clogs.
  • Toilets: only flush toilet paper. "Flushable" wipes are not actually flushable — they cause serious blockages. Dispose of them in the trash.
  • Garbage disposal: run cold water for 30 seconds before and after using it. Never put celery, artichokes, potato peels, or pasta/rice into a disposal.
06

Fixing Leaky Faucets

A dripping faucet wastes up to 20 gallons of water per day. Every dripping faucet can be repaired — the key is identifying which of the four faucet types you have.

The Four Faucet Types

Ball Faucet

Single handle, dome cap

Worn ball, springs, or inlet seats. Common in kitchens.

Cartridge

Single or double handle

Worn cartridge or O-rings. Pull out old cartridge and match it exactly at the hardware store.

Ceramic Disc

Wide single lever

Cracked disc or worn seals. Clean the disc first — discs rarely need replacement.

Compression

Two separate handles

Oldest type. Worn rubber washer at the bottom of the stem. Cheapest repair of all four types.

Universal Repair Procedure (Works for All Four Types)

  1. Turn off the supply valves under the sink — both hot and cold. Turn the faucet handle to release pressure and drain residual water.
  2. Remove the handle. Usually there is a decorative cap hiding a screw on top of the handle. Pry off the cap, remove the screw, and the handle lifts off.
  3. Remove the internal mechanism. Depending on type: unscrew the packing nut (compression), pull out the cartridge, unscrew the ball mechanism cap, or remove the cartridge disc assembly.
  4. Take the part to the hardware store. Bring the entire part — do not try to describe it. Match it visually. For cartridges especially, the exact model number matters. Many stores have cross-reference books.
  5. Reassemble with the new part. Lubricate any O-rings with plumber's grease before installation. Reassemble in reverse order.
  6. Turn water back on slowly and check for leaks. Tighten only if needed — do not overtighten packing nuts or supply connections, which can damage threads or crack plastic.

✓ The #1 Faucet Repair Mistake

  • Overtightening. A packing nut or supply line connection should be hand-tight plus a quarter turn maximum. More than that and you will crack the fitting or damage the seat.
  • If a repaired faucet still drips: the seat (the surface the washer presses against) may be pitted or damaged. A seat wrench removes it and a new seat costs about $3.
07

Water Heater Basics

Your water heater is one of the most important appliances in your home — and also one of the most neglected. Understanding it helps you diagnose problems, maintain it correctly, and know when to call for help.

Anatomy of a Tank Water Heater

TANK COLD INLET (dip tube) HOT OUTLET ANODE ROD T&P RELIEF VALVE ⚠ ← THERMOSTAT (set to 120°F) DRAIN VALVE GAS BURNER / ELEMENT TEMPERATURE GUIDE ● 120°F (49°C) — Recommended Prevents scalding + saves energy ● 130°F — Acceptable for dishwashers ● 140°F+ — Scalding risk

Figure 7 — Anatomy of a conventional tank water heater

Common Problems & Diagnosis

✓ Annual Maintenance (Takes 20 Minutes, Extends Life by Years)

  • Flush sediment: connect a garden hose to the drain valve, run water until it is clear
  • Inspect the anode rod: unscrew from top of the tank (often under a plastic cap). If it is under 1/2 inch thick, replace it
  • Test the T&P valve: lift the test lever briefly — water should flow out of the discharge pipe and stop when you release. If it does not, the valve needs replacement
08

Toilet Repairs

Toilet problems are among the most common plumbing calls — and most of them require zero special skills. Opening the tank lid reveals a simple mechanism with only a few parts, all available at any hardware store for under $30.

Inside the Tank — Understanding the Mechanism

Fill Valve (left side of tank)
  • Refills the tank after each flush
  • Has a float that rises with water level and shuts off the valve
  • If the float is set too high, water spills into the overflow tube constantly (running toilet)
  • Ballcock (old style) or float cup (modern) — both replaceable for under $15
Flush Valve & Flapper (center/bottom)
  • The flapper is the rubber seal at the bottom of the tank
  • Lifts when you flush, drops back to seal the tank so it can refill
  • When the flapper wears out, water silently leaks from tank to bowl (phantom flush/running toilet)
  • Replacing a flapper costs $5 and takes 5 minutes — no tools required

Common Problems & Fixes

✓ The $5 Repair That Saves $200 in Water Bills

  • A leaking flapper wastes up to 200 gallons per day — that is $200 to $700 per year in water costs in many U.S. cities
  • To replace: turn off the supply valve, flush to empty the tank, unhook the flapper from the two pegs, take it to the hardware store to match it, snap the new one on, turn water back on
  • No tools. No experience needed. Five minutes.

Who's Behind Acueducto.org

Every word on this site was written by a working plumber with 11 years of experience and no financial motive other than making sure that ordinary people stop getting ripped off.

SRG

Samuel Ross Griffin

Licensed Plumber · 11 Years Experience
Third Generation Plumber · United States

I started learning plumbing at 18 alongside my father, who learned from his father before him. In 11 years of field work I have seen families charged $400 to unclog a drain that clears in 10 minutes with a $20 snake. I built this guide because I believe knowledge about the systems in your own home is a right, not a privilege.

Acueducto.org is funded entirely by me, personally. There are no investors, no sponsorships, and no revenue of any kind. If this guide helps you, share it with someone who needs it — that is the only thing I ask.

Transparency Statement

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Samuel Ross Griffin
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